HOW TO START A DE-CARBONISED FASHION LABEL IN 2023

Concept

My digital artifact Reborn Australia focuses on the decarbonisation of the fashion industry by examining the distribution of goods. Combining academic research, analysis of fashion brands and political parties, my research is dedicated to developing a business plan for a fashion label in 2023 that strives to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050. Throughout my investigation, I explore the distinction between sustainability and decarbonisation in the industry and the future of fashion concerning AR and VR technologies and its alignment with the Anthropocene. In this report, I delve into the methodology of my digital artifact, which involves researching partial approaches to reducing greenhouse gas emissions (GGEs), analysing my findings, and taking action through my presence on InstagramFacebook, TikTok and Twitter. Throughout these digital platforms, I aim to contribute to direct action by creating content based on research and engaging in media communication and distribution.

Research

Decarbonisation refers to the deliberate shift towards a low-carbon or carbon-free economy by reducing greenhouse gas (GHGs) emissions, aiming to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050 (IPCC, 2018). Within the fashion industry, decarbonisation efforts entail reducing reliance on fossil fuels, improving energy efficiency, and encouraging widespread adoption of renewable energy sources. This involves transforming various aspects of the fashion supply chain including production processes, material sourcing, transportation and waste management to minimise carbon emissions throughout the entire lifecycle of fashion products (Fashion For Good, 2023). By embracing decarbonisation practices and implementing innovative technologies the fashion sector can play a crucial role in reaching net-zero by 2050, especially for new business owners within this sector. 

Think tanks are research institutes that research on government and businesses (Moore, 2019).  The UN Climate Change is a think tank that has initiated a climate action work program, convening fashion stakeholders to develop a coherent and unified position. The Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action was founded in 2018 to map out the route to achieving net-zero emissions by 2050, having 99 apparel brands and manufacturers participating. Fashion has made some progress in reporting on its climate commitments in the last two years, according to the United Nations Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action and CDP, which released its 2023 progress report two months ago. It’s reported that the industry needs “faster acceleration of actions and scaled collaboration”, meaning fashion brands need to engage more efficiently with more suppliers and with each other to reduce supply chain emissions to halve emissions by 2030. Yet, just as no one government, organisation or person can drive the climate process alone no single business can drive sectorial change either. The transition to a net-zero economy is not easy and unprecedented levels of collaboration both within and outside the industry are essential. Convening and fostering climate action, particularly within the manufacturing supply chain space is very critical in driving decarbonisation within the fashion industry at a large scale. This includes collaborating more with suppliers and engaging the entire ecosystem, from cotton farmers to textile machinery producers. 

The Australian Government is acting on waste and the textile lifecycle of items funding the National Clothing Product Stewardship Scheme which aims to reduce the amount of clothing sent to landfill. However, there isn’t much funding towards the supply chain process other than “making electric vehicles more accessible”.  To accelerate the transition towards a decarbonised fashion industry, governments need to establish clear and ambitious policy frameworks. This requires fashion corporate leaders to actively engage in public discussions and political debates. It’s encouraged for brands to collaborate on supplier initiatives and utilise their collective purchase power to drive climate action (UNFCC, 2023).  

Another crucial element within the fashion industry is the misrepresentation of sustainability known as greenwashing. This is a significant issue that undermines efforts towards decarbonisation. Many brands claim to be sustainable without implementing substantial practices addressing carbon emissions. Sustainability encompasses a broader range of concerns, including economic, social and environmental aspects, while decarbonisation specifically focuses on reducing GHG emissions (Moore, C. 2023). Misleading sustainable practices may be framed as using organic or recycled materials while neglecting carbon-intensive processes or transportation, this can mislead consumers and divert attention from decarbonisation efforts (Adamkeiwicz, J. 2022). This limitation becomes particularly significant in an industry known for its substantial carbon footprint  Decarbonisation should be prioritised as a targeted strategy to achieve net-zero emissions. This involves transitioning to renewable energy sources, reducing the carbon footprint throughout the supply chain and offering low-carbon products and services. 

Analysis

“The Anthropocene Epoch is an unofficial unit of geologic time, used to describe the most recent period in Earth’s history when human activity started to have a significant impact on the planet’s climate and ecosystems

 
National Geographic

The argument revolving around the Anthropocene is that humans are responsible for the change in living conditions currently experienced by all life forms on the planet in ways that are not foreseeable long into the future but are observed in the geological record (Moore, C. 2022). This reflects that it’s up to humans to apply the evidence of research to analyse to drive direct action in new ways within the distribution of products. From research undertaken within the fashion industry and a reflection from futurist Simon Holmes’ innovative study (2023) there are examples of initiatives to decarbonise and help achieve net-zero emissions.

  1. Transitioning to renewable energy sources: This involves sourcing renewable electricity for manufacturing facilities, stores and offices, and on-site energy generation e.g. solar or wind power. 
  2. Reducing emissions in the supply chain: Collaborating with suppliers and manufacturers to implement energy-efficient like reducing waste, and minimising water and energy consumption.
  3. Circular principles: Reusing, recycling and upcycling of materials to reduce demand for new production. For example, incorporate recycled materials into new designs and reduce reliance on resource-intensive materials. 
  4. Collaborating and sharing knowledge: Among brands, designers, researchers and policymakers. By working together, sharing the best practices and collectively addressing challenges. 
  5. Optimising transportation: Using fuel-efficient vehicles, minimising distance between distribution centres/stores. This can significantly decrease the environmental impact of distribution activities(McKinnon, 2010).  Patagonia does this by using less carbon-intensive fuels to reduce emissions (Patagonia, 2022).
  6. Promoting local and sustainable sourcing: To reduce the carbon footprint of supply chains, retailers can prioritise sourcing products locally and from suppliers (Gereffi, 2020). Jillian Boustred has been Australian Made since 2015 with 100% of garments made and sold in Sydney and strives for local pick and delivery services (Jillian Boustred, 2023).   

Applying these strategies requires a comprehensive and integrated approach, involving stakeholders at every stage of the fashion chain. Supply chains generate 60% of all carbon emissions globally, therefore addressing supply chains is an essential step in achieving net zero (UN, 2020). This involves developing new technologies that are environmentally sustainable and have a low carbon footprint like energy storage solutions, utilising electric vehicles and more efficient processes. Upon other research, I discovered that most brands were not actively engaged in innovation in distribution. To address this gap, I decided to contact international fashion brands including ZARA, Mango, H&M, Cotton On and Brie Leon as well as the NSW Labor Party and Wollongong representative Alison Byrnes. The NSW Labor Party is contributing to Australia’s first National Electric Vehicle Strategy, to reduce emissions to accelerate the uptake of electric vehicles. Unfortunately, I have yet to receive a response from most brands except Cotton On who informed me that they are unable to allocate time to answer my question. Zara, on the other hand, forwarded me a link to their website which did not provide any specific information regarding reducing GGEs within their supply chain. There is a lack of responsiveness and transparency from these entities regarding their efforts in sustainable distribution practices. This highlights the need for greater accountability from fashion brands in addressing environmental concerns and adopting innovative strategies to reduce carbon emissions. 

The future of fashion in particular about other new technologies such as augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) holds significant potential in the context of addressing climate change. It’s been argued that AR and VR can revolutionise the fashion industry by offering innovative solutions  (Herz, 2019). About cyberpunk novums, which are new and futuristic elements often depicted in cyberpunk media, virtual realities can bring these realities to life. For example, fashion brands could use AR and VR to create virtual fitting rooms without physical garments. This aligns with the cybernetics vision of human power over chance, as consumers have more control and convenience in their shopping experience (Moore, 2020).

Action

References

Adamkiewicz, J., Kochanska, E., Adamkiewicz, I. and Łukasik, R.M. (2022). Greenwashing and sustainable fashion industry. Current Opinion in Green and Sustainable Chemistry, 38(100710). doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cogsc.2022.100710.

Australia Fashion Council (n.d.). Clothing Product Stewardship. [online] AFC. Available at: https://ausfashioncouncil.com/program/product-stewardship/.

Australian Government (2023). Climate change, energy, environment and adaptation. [online] Pmc.gov.au. Available at: https://www.pmc.gov.au/domestic-policy/climate-change-energy-environment-and-adaptation.

Boustred, J. (2023). Our Australian Made Journal. [online] Jillian Boustred. Available at: https://jillianboustred.com/pages/our-australian-made-journal#:~:text=Jillian%20Boustred%20has%20been%20Australian [Accessed 4 Jun. 2023].

Gereffi, G. (2020). What does the COVID-19 pandemic teach us about global value chains? The case of medical supplies. Journal of International Business Policy, [online] 3(3). doi:https://doi.org/10.1057/s42214-020-00062-w.

Hartley J. (2010) Paradigm shifters: tricksters and cultural science. Cultural Science Journal, Vol.3 (Issue 1), pp. -. https://doi.org/10.5334/csci.29

Herz, M. and Rauschnabel, P.A. (2019). Understanding the diffusion of virtual reality glasses: The role of media, fashion and technology. Technological Forecasting and Social Change, 138, pp.228–242. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.techfore.2018.09.008.

Holmes, S. (2023). Simon Holmes à Court Innovate 2023 Full Presentation. [online] http://www.youtube.com. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66Y2fXN6g0c [Accessed 4 Jun. 2023].

IPCC (2018). Global Warming of 1.5 oC. [online] IPCC. Available at: https://www.ipcc.ch/sr15/.

Mckinnon, A. (2010). Environmental sustainability: A new priority for logistics managers. [online] Available at: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/285511281_Environmental_sustainability_A_new_priority_for_logistics_managers.

Moore, C. (2019). BCM325 Future Cultures – Operations Research and Think Tanks: Part One. [online] http://www.youtube.com. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsPFQeg9JlQ.

Moore, C. (2020). BCM325 Future Cultures: Cyberculture Series (3 of 4) – Cyberpunk. [online] http://www.youtube.com. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2JfAnJuU98.

Moore, C. (2022). Anthropocene. [online] http://www.youtube.com. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQacwpj2WHA [Accessed 4 Jun. 2023].

Moore, C. (2023). Title: Decarbonisation and the Role of Media and Communication Industries. [online] Google Docs. Available at: https://docs.google.com/document/d/11zbftAU9QMPuZ1bz3_weAf_nSkn3aghxi–wDb5gE2Y/edit#heading=h.28w8pk9lvtta [Accessed 4 Jun. 2023].

National Geographic Society (2022). Anthropocene | National Geographic Society. [online] education.nationalgeographic.org. Available at: https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/anthropocene/.

Patagonia (2022). Supply Chain Environmental Responsibility Program – Patagonia. [online] http://www.patagonia.com. Available at: https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/supply-chain-environmental-responsibility-program.html.

PCC. (2018). Global Warming of 1.5 Degrees Celsius. An IPCC Special Report. Retrieved from https://www.ipcc.ch/sr15/

Rubenstein , D. (2018). The David Rubenstein Show: Jeff BezosYouTube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3NBQcAqyu4.

The Climate Council (2021). Climate Council Online Book Club #5 \\ Climate Council. [online] http://www.youtube.com. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQYCkSOTlEk&t=2s [Accessed 4 Jun. 2023].

UN Climate Change (2023). Fashion for Climate Action. [online] http://www.youtube.com. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUUh226SmaU&t=1s [Accessed 4 Jun. 2023].

UNFCCC (2023a). FASHION INDUSTRY CHARTER FOR CLIMATE ACTION Global Climate Action. [online] Available at: https://unfccc.int/sites/default/files/resource/230329%20BLS23055%20UCC%20Climate%20Action%202023%20v06.pdf.

UNFCCC (2023b). New Report: Fashion Industry Needs to Make Climate Action a Top Trend. [online] Unfccc.int. Available at: https://unfccc.int/news/new-report-fashion-industry-needs-to-make-climate-action-a-top-trend.

unfccc (2018). About the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action | UNFCCC. [online] Unfccc.int. Available at: https://unfccc.int/climate-action/sectoral-engagement/global-climate-action-in-fashion/about-the-fashion-industry-charter-for-climate-action.

United Nations (2020). UNLOCKING THE GLOBAL PATHWAYS TO RESILIENCE, GROWTH, AND SUSTAINABILITY FOR 2030 REIMAGINING THE AGENDA. [online] Available at: https://www.accenture.com/content/dam/accenture/final/accenture-com/document/Accenture-UNGC-CEO-Study-Supply-Chain-Feature.pdf#zoom=40 [Accessed 4 Jun. 2023].

AESTHETICS OF THE FUTURE

Credit Warner Bros. Pictures. 2013, Joaquin Phoenix, ‘Her’

When exploring the deep abyss of speculated future networks it seems unmanageable to think where to begin. Future networks are the ecology of endless information from everything human or non-human. As humans greatly expand our capacity to comprehend, process, communicate and store information everything is changing and progressing rapidly. Within future networks, there are the speculated future networks that explore the new technologies that are approaching with big footsteps (A. Yastrebova, 2019). Within speculated future networks there’s the subject matter and aesthetics of the cyberpunk genre and the contrasted artefacts that are produced through the methodology of design fiction. Signs of future networks are all around us through different content such as aesthetics and media productions. I’ll be exploring the aesthetics of the future and cyberpunk in comparison to design fiction with a focus on the content from the films Blade Runner 2049 (2017), The Matrix (1999) and Her (2013), exploring how they fit within our reality.

Cyberpunk

Cyberpunk is a genre or aesthetic that reflects a dystopian futuristic setting that focuses on where the human meets the machine (A. McFarlane, 2021). It’s also been explained as a form of exploding information technologies and practices. Cyberpunk grew behind the computer screen and came increasingly popular after popular films such as Blade Runner (1982) and The Matrix (1999). Through the visual literature and cinematic success, cyberpunk won viewers through its strong appeal of a fascinating visual vocabulary of the future and cyberspace (C. Alphin, 2020).

Futuristic City, 2019, YouTube

The main themes that appear throughout the module focus on the explosion of information through the internet. Throughout the movie Blade Runner 2049 (2017) the content is scary, interesting, ugly and also beautiful in its mess. It features a world built on visualisation, entertainment and advertising, this is a vacant similarity within the world we live in now of constant entertainment and mess that’s on the internet. This relates to Bruce Sterling describing the internet as “strange or even unnatural” (1993) in the way of cyberpunks taking on a world that has been left in a mess of never-ending technology.

The type of content that captivates me when exploring the module is the futuristic fashion that has influenced style today. The skinny glasses, all black and leather influenced by the machine-made virtual construct. Cyberpunk fashion has influenced the clothes of top designers such as Balenciaga, Balmain and Alexander Wang who named his collection ‘Worker Girl Meets The Matrix’. The costume designer of the signature wardrobe Kym Barret says “I was trying to tell a story about what it would be like to live in that world, to feel like it was in a world of bigger possibility, and now we are in that world”.

Matrix Fashion, 2018, Glamour

Design Fiction

Design fiction is a design methodology that investigates design decisions that could be implemented in the near future. It’s argued to be a world-building exercise that promotes making the unreal seem real in the context of a soon environment. In contrast to cyberpunk, the themes throughout the module reflect design fiction to be a clean and credible aesthetic with less ‘stuff’ and visual mess. Black Mirror was an example that stood out, Nosedive is an episode within the show that reflects a dystopian view of cyberculture with a fictional illustration of social media however a dystopian view of it solely being about a social rating system. This is a scary reality of what social media’s outcome might look like in the future.

A film called Her (2013) has an interesting way of exploring this topic through artificial intelligence, based on a system that interprets external data and uses that data for tasks (M. Haenlein, 2019). Although in this case, the AI can learn and adapt near like a human which results in a love story. The visual presentation of the film features the world in a way that is sleek and modern but has elements of old style such as mid-century furniture and fashion inspired by the 1920s and 1940s. Elements noticed are picture frame computers, no cars, hiring people to write letters, holographic video games, and technology that is fashionable and non-distracting. These elements of design fiction come with far more complexities and unforeseen consequences than idyllic technology.

A. Reyes, A Poster A Day, Behance

When thinking about the direction in which the world is evolving Jean Baudrillard speaks of “the mutation of a properly industrial society into what could be called our techno-culture”, as we shift from the renaissance to the 21st century and move into the post-modern period (R.L. Rutsky, 1999). This post-modern period is still unknown but will stem from the information society and technology which is what the aesthetic of cyberpunk and design fiction is crafted by, to predict a post-modern future. Overall, as cyberpunk is seen as an unorganised mess design fiction is a guide to the near future development of a digital culture of new ideas of creativity and how this process should be organised (F. Stalder, 2005).